16. Nong

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I am living in Thailand, a really interesting and strange country.

Thanks to Ms. Ace’s job we have travelled the world and I will be forever in debt to her for the opportunity to tag along. I owe it to her.

A lot has been printed about Thailand, and about the nuances, balances, contradictions and frustrations in this society. Many complex and rich traditions, and a very distinct and noble sense of art and aesthetics.

It has world-class scenery, beaches, hotels, hospitality services and food. It has great people; with good values and a kind approach to life. They are nice people and have an interest in you. But they are conservative, shy and keep to themselves.

Some Thais do not have foreign friendships -some do not speak English in a way where they feel confident of not “losing face“. “Face” is your social driver’s licence and is highly valued in Thai culture.

They can work hard. They are paid very little for the work they do, and most are happy living like that. Money is very tight for the majority of Thais. Some people get into eternal debts or work multiple jobs, or borrow from employers and friends.

Many Thai companies work their employees really hard. Many locals exploit their own people with an array of arcane rules and obligations to their superiors in the social hierarchy.

Ms Ace faces enormous challenges in her role. Foreigners always work harder than Thais. Nothing satisfies a Thai company more than exploiting a farang.

There is another, fake country, the “brand Thailand” of beaches, easy lives, cheap vices, youth. You can be 22 years old again. Every day and forever.

Legions of foreign men that have fallen prey to the trap of Thailand.  In this city there are Demons walking next to you. And a gruesome end is always a possibility when your life revolves around vices and excess.

Self-destruction is the specialty of this country.

Living a second youth and bring tied romantically to “Nong”, “Ploy” or “Lek” and living alone in a faraway land is a sure recipe for catastrophe when you are in middle age and your body hurts so much.

Because you are not 22 years old anymore. Your body knows. Nong knows. Only you, my dear friend, only you do not know.

You persist in pushing yourself into situations that a youth might learn from after going through a few rough nights.

You punish your fifty-something body in ways that twenty-somethings do not. You still believe that “you” are a magical Hugh Grant-like irresistible fellow with limitless time and resources. Almost like you were in your late twenties, but with the added value of what you believe is the experience and wealth you have gained since.

And you are fooled by it. By the lights, the women and the night.

The truth is that Thais do not do any of the stuff they sell you, because they are not running away from anyone.

Be warned. They do not believe the stories they tell you, and you should not either.

The more involved you get in the entry-level Thailand the higher the risk you are taking on, and the more dramatic and uncertain your future might be.

You may be happy here, but you will never be Thai enough for a Thai. And Thailand has a reputation of eating foreign middle-aged men.

You have been warned.

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